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Monster Kolor Application Instructions

1. Wipe figure down 2-3 times with 70% rubbing alcohol THROUGHLY ! (even in the hard to reach areas)


2 Pour color directly into airbrush..For brighter color application shake up & spray white base as your first coat and then layer your colors on top of the white.

3. Layer your colors in sequence from light to dark. Example : White,Yellow,Orange,Blue, Purple,etc
Color can be poured back into bottle to eliminate waste

4. After Colors are applied now you can add specialty paints direct over paints. Example : Pearls,Flakes,etc

Note : the colors will appear dull in appearence up to this point. Dont worry this is correct.


5. Once all paint is applied, warm over figure with blow dryer to dry up any remaining areas in preperation for clear coating.


6. Clear Coat : Use in a well ventilated area! Must use an OSHA approved respirator while spraying. This is a 2 component system. It is mixed 2:1 ( 2 parts clear 1 part activator) . Mix small amount with mixing cup provided. For micro mixture please mix 1 part clear ½ part activator.


Usually, 1 coat of clear is all that’s required for the desired gloss level. If you chose to do 2 coats please allow 15 minutes wait time before 2nd coat of clear application.

7. Place figure in a dust free environment at 60 degrees or warmer for 24 hours to cure.

8. If your going to store Monster Kolor for a long period of time between uses I recommend placing the cap plugs back into the bottles to avoid air getting into the bottle and possibly evaporating the solvents out of the paint.

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Basically I'm wondering if you have MSDS Sheets on your thinner.

Jack , i dont recommend the fridge. @michael i can send you a MSDS if you'd like. Its not thinner specific though.

Cold paint does not spray well. Ive had a lot of problems in winter as my hobby room is not climate controlled.

Sorry to belabor the point, Matt, but why not? If the heat is a problem, then why wouldn't cooling the activator help?

He talking about the negativity of putting harsh chemicals in a place that allows it the ability to infect your food, now if you had a mini fridge dedicated to paint supplies...  Matt I'll pm you in a bit, I'm not trying to replicate, I just like knowing what I'm using, I remember talking to some guys at a hobby shop, and repping Monster Kolor as this awesome paint for vinyl toys, and they asked me what kind of paint it was, and I was like "Duhhh". 

Yeah, the point is that I would have a dedicated fridge.

Michael McGowan said:

He talking about the negativity of putting harsh chemicals in a place that allows it the ability to infect your food, now if you had a mini fridge dedicated to paint supplies...  Matt I'll pm you in a bit, I'm not trying to replicate, I just like knowing what I'm using, I remember talking to some guys at a hobby shop, and repping Monster Kolor as this awesome paint for vinyl toys, and they asked me what kind of paint it was, and I was like "Duhhh". 

I hope Matt doesn't mind me flicking my marble into the ring, but i dont wanna see anybody lose a paw nor accidentally burn down their gingerbread-house. The fridge is unnecessary and may even complicate matters. Storing unstable compounds or flammable compounds in fridges is not really done. Only under certain protocols in lab situations can it be done safely. Period. But I digress...neither the clearcoat nor it's partnered catalyst(the activator) is gonna be happy in that cold fridge anyway.
* I will give you what they used to call "the rub." As in.."aye, now there's the rub." That's pirate speak for acknowledging the affirmative. Here it is: You're dealing with an "unstable" compound that is being held in a liquid state. It's only goal is to solidify itself, yet it is temporarily holding back from doing this... It's bond is literally being held in a form of animated suspension as long as it is contained under certain LIMITED conditions. That goes for both the clearcoat, and the necessary catylist(the activator) that has been paired specifically for it. They like to stay in the dark and not have their molecules pierced and agitated by light. They do not like extreme heat nor extreme cold, and both of these extremes will cause the already unstable compounds to malfunction. Basically, they will perform best if held under specific conditions. Those conditions being: air-tight nonporous containers, dark dry storage at normal "house/pantry" temps...dark is important and so is a near constant temperature with no spikes or declines. Consider it like granpa's ol' kick-ass-strong two-part epoxies of the dope/laquer/ether industrial age, and remember to treat it gently.
Now that summer is here(az sun don't fk around), I keep the can of clear as an option to the standard. But beware beware beware: it's ease of use is unbearably addicting...sooooo easy to get hooked on ease of use. You have been duly warned about TheCan.

I just went to clear coat some things and had Jell-O activator waiting for me.  Had to throw it out.  It kinda reminded me of nickelodeon gak so I played with it for alittle haha.  I think I need to store my paints in a cooler room..

Dead Presidents said:

Jack, sounds to me like the activator is going bad. Contact me for a new one. In hot areas Florida,etc unused activator can start to gel from the heat.
As for thinning products. All of you seem to have your own recipies. Universal thinner works best for thinning mk. A lot of you have asked if lacquer thinner or acetone will work. My answer is "yes" however, uni thinner is what we recommend for best results.

I just did a few customs that I finished, its been 99-109 here all summer, and last week I dealt with the jello activator...almost all of my activator was this way... I use 100% acetone as my thinner, I get alot of life out of my paint this way.  i threw some acetone in the activator, and shaked it for about 3 mins straight.. the acetone broke it down again. did my mix, added a bit more acetone to thin, and sprayed, it came out fine, curred fine, and no drips.

hmm. may have to try that next time.  I get scared that the mixture ratio might not be right if I thin the jello.

did you use alittle more than usual?

nope, still used the same... my theory was that there was some sort of thinner in the activator to begin with, as my full bottle had shrunken down and hardened... so when you add the acetone/ or reducer, you are replenishing what evaporated, and working it back into the mixture when shaking?

 

thats my theory anyways, the clear cured and worked great.

 

Crap, I had the same thing, and tossed the duds.  I figured it was my fault, since I bagged the clear and activator together for a bit, and one of the clear bottles leaked.  I've changed my storage since.

I hope Matt will let me buy just a big bottle of activator.

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