backing out the needle works good, but remember it's like holding the trigger back all the time, so it will spray out immediately. Pressure is probably a big factor too... if money is tight, you can always use a 40% off coupon for a badger compressor at Michaels... thats what I did... saved $100 bucks
this was all extremely helpful. i dont have too much of an issue with the clearcoat....sort of. i have found if i tear my gun down beforehand and clean it immaculately freaky clean and tool up the psi - that everything goes easy peasy...till i get to about 30 mins in or 8 sculpts into the process. then i can see the process slowing down. going for a spare gun last week, i got such a sicksweet deal on a new hi-line that i was considering applying the well-saved green towards a gun just for clearcoat. what would you reccomend matt? i am an iwata fan. love their guns and compressors and have had nothing but good experiences with their gear. i am open to other manufacturers as long as the quality is similar. i have yet to burn one of their compressors out and the only issue i have had with an airtool of theirs they glady just replaced the whole gun instead. awesome company. any hints matt?
For my bigger spraying I use SATA from Germany. Here is a picture of one my mini jets.
1.0 tip . You need a large compressor to power these things at 30psi
Most of my airbrushes are Iwata because of there resistance to solvents.
I will use this gun for my larger projects at the shop applying colors flakes, etc. This is good for you guys if clear coating a bunch of figures at once. I myself use a full size gun for clear coating. I clear coat anywhere from 50 - 350 figures at once though ;0
I'd like a larger gun like that for when i'm doing 20 to 30 at a time